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Camino de Santiago

Oasis in Reliegos – Camino de Santiago

The Senda can be a difficult beast!  While a flat stage, and supposedly easy to cover the miles, the monotony of the flat “autopista de peregrino” can be numbing, and that is not only for the mind!  The path can be quite difficult for the feet and legs, the surface hard and unrelenting!

walking the Camino de Santiago

I have a tendency to carry too much stuff – just in case!  I must have been a boy scout in a previous life as I am prepared for most eventualities.  On the Camino, I should have been less prepared as each step is weighed down by that which is on my back.  It is a heavy load. As the winds blew across the barren landscape, each step became heavier and heavier.  With little to look at beyond the agricultural lands and occasional small stream, it is no wonder that the mind wandered to the heavy load and the footsteps that appeared to thump thump thump along, each step more laborious and incredibly heavier!  Daydreaming about a bed in the next town carried me through the last few kilometres.

Camino de Santiago

It was a challenge to keep moving forward, a number of rest areas appeared that beckoned to me – stop here, take the load off your back!  Rest a while.  The only problem – I knew that stopping would mean that arriving at my destination would only be later. With record numbers of pilgrims on the Camino, I wanted to ensure a bed and did not want to stop!  I was also afraid, if I did stop, my feet may not continue!  Surely they would soon go on strike – not taking another step.  With the wind in my face, all I could do was push on and hope for the kilometers to come to an end soon!

Camino de Santiago

My walking partner, a Spanish man who I met just outside the town of Fromista, called ahead to book a room or bed in Mansilla de las Mulas – but already the town was booked out!  It was not even noon!  My feet were already screaming out in pain and I was daydreaming of them being cut off and replaced!  Disheartened, all I could do was literally trudge along and hope to find something in Reliegos however the Brierley book suggesting only one albergue was in town!

alberges on the Camino de Santiago

What a relief as, like a mirage, an albergue appeared!  Even better – it was brand new and beautiful!  Apparently, only 1 year old – I have to say – it was my oasis in the Camino   desert!  We were taken up to the room to see if it was ok, but there was no need – I already knew it was perfect!  It was even more perfect when I saw the gorgeous room – only standard beds – no bunk beds!  The bathroom and shower – a picture of exactly what a girl needed after 20+ kms walking the Camino de Santiago!  The shower had a great space so that your clothes stayed dry while you showered – a welcome relief after the interesting origami done in some albergues to keep my clothes dry while showering in such tight quarters!

Camino de Santiago

And to think, all this and it can only got better – after a shower and lie down, I came down to the bar to have a glass of wine, write in my journal and relax.  The tapas available were amazing!  These people really know how to make a pilgrim smile!  Can’t wait to see what they serve for the pilgrim’s dinner – I may never leave!

walking the Camino de Santiago, beer

Albergue:  Piedras Blancas 2 in Reliegos.  Phone:  987 330 094 – while not an end town for the major stages (stapes) along the Camino, well worth the stop!  Everything is so fresh and new – a quiet Oasis on the walk to Leon.


About Anita Mac

The bucket list just keeps growing! The more I cross off - the more exciting new destinations and activities I find! I have been fortunate enough to travel a considerable distance over the years. My love of many things, including travel, cycling, kayaking and photography fit together like hand and glove. I have to keep asking myself....where to next? I am happy to share my travels and photography through my blogs: http://traveldestinationbucketlist.com and http://anitamacphotos.wordpress.com Hope you enjoy them as much as I do! On to the next adventure!


20 thoughts on “Oasis in Reliegos – Camino de Santiago

  1. I appreciate you blogging about your experiences along the Camino. And may your feet find the relief they need.

    Posted by Suzanne McRae | October 5, 2012, 10:31 am
    • Thanks Suzanne…my feet often need relief, but at least the views are pretty amazing on a daily basis….makes it all worth while! Also helps when an albergue magically appears when you think you can not take another step! I believe they call it – when the universe provides!!!! Thank you Universe – there have been many occasions where the universe has provided!

      Posted by Anita Mac | October 6, 2012, 1:16 pm
  2. Anita, the stress of perhaps not finding a place to sleep is unfortunate!
    Sounds like it seems to work out in the end, though.
    Press on my friend! 🙂 You are inspiring.

    Posted by drawandshoot | October 5, 2012, 11:12 am
    • Thanks Karen – it is amazing how it works out! Today I really thought my luck was running out – at the end of a 20+ km day, there were no rooms. I called around to no avail and resigned myself to the thought of another 12K when I saw one last option! Sure enough – there was room at the inn for one single pilgrim – me!!! Life is good, and even better with a bed!

      Posted by Anita Mac | October 6, 2012, 1:19 pm
  3. I didn’t know there would be such a shortage of beds. Good to know! Maybe I should open one up somewhere along the path…:)

    Posted by Travel Spirit | October 5, 2012, 3:10 pm
    • I believe many have had that exact thought! I hear that the shortages fluctuate! My night in Reliegos – we nearly had the place to ourselves – who would have believed that they were sold out the night before! I have seen a number of gorgeous old stone buildings, derelict and just dreaming of being used again – it could be quite special to run an albergue for Camino pilgrims- but then, I guess that is why there are so many volunteers along the way! They come and run the albergue for 2 weeks (seems to be the norm)!

      Posted by Anita Mac | October 6, 2012, 1:22 pm
  4. Great Photos – Happy Friday:) I hope all is well with you – take care!

    Posted by cravesadventure | October 5, 2012, 4:43 pm
  5. Reminds me of our first night in Amsterdam… we had to pay some dude to sleep in his basement, but he warned us that his cousin will come down around 5AM to take a shower before heading to work. We were so desperate we accepted, but we slept hugging our backpacks thinking we were going to get scammed…. None of that happened!

    Posted by Bashar A. | October 5, 2012, 5:48 pm
  6. It all sounds fantastic, but why the “x#@?” do they serve Amstel Beer (a Dutch beer, part of Heineken’s imperium).
    Don’t they have genuine Spanish cerveza to accompany the tapas ?
    Anyway, enjoy the walks ánd the stops !
    (Guess someone should think of organizing a path like the Camino from Split to Medugorje in Croatia, or even better, from Rome to Medugorje :-).

    Posted by pim | October 6, 2012, 4:17 am
    • Hey Pim, as a non beer drinker, I didn’t even notice!!!! All the chairs outside were San Miguel – not to worry! Guess they are catering to the zillions of dutch that are walking the Camino! Have met and walked with quite a few! Love the idea for Croatia – although I would love to do a water based one – perhaps kayak from Split to Medugorje??!!!

      Posted by Anita Mac | October 6, 2012, 1:26 pm
      • Howdy Anita, in fact you can (almost) kayak from Split to Medugorje.
        First part along the Adriatic coast, than upstream the Neretva river, and just a couple of miles by foot and there you have it.
        Perhaps kayaking the Cetina River is an option, about 100 K. from beginning to end, and always through a most beautiful country, even for non beer drinking persons worth it, as the water is always drinkable and clear.
        (No beer, no problem, as everybody here makes wine and moonshine).

        Posted by pim | October 7, 2012, 4:11 am
  7. I really want to do the Camino but I`m worried that it is a good idea in my head but not practical to actually do. I am so lazy and I know it`s not for the faint of heart. Although I must admit your photos of beer and food are tempting…

    Posted by Ayngelina | October 6, 2012, 7:09 pm
    • If you really want to do it -you will find a way! Personally, I think it is worth it, but it is a personal journey, so only you can decide if your desire to do it will overcome the hardships on the road! I have certainly had days where I wanted to quit – but then something happens and makes it all worth while! Certainly not for the faint of heart – but the Camino de Santiago will offer so many rewards for your efforts – I am really loving it! If you want an easier way out – there are tour companies who will carry your bags for you….help to lighten the load. I have also met many pilgrims who have taken a bus to skip some parts…there are so many options! I am planning on putting together a list of useful information from along the Camino when I have finished walking – hope that will help you in your decisions. And sadly – most of the time, I dive into my food before the camera even has a chance – you wouldn’t believe how amazing some of the food is!!! The pilgrim’s dinners are pretty decent!

      Posted by Anita Mac | October 7, 2012, 3:19 am
  8. We’re cheering you on Anita! It sounds like quite an experience but what an accomplishment it will be when you take that final step on the Camino and say “I DID IT”. Good luck this week!

    Posted by Denise | October 8, 2012, 1:08 pm
  9. Hi! Do you remember the price of the albergue? I’m working on a list of albergues with contact info and prices and I can’t find the price of this one and they don’t answer when I call! 🙂

    Posted by Ann | March 18, 2013, 3:07 am
    • I am pretty sure it was 10 Euro although I didn’t write it down. This albergue was fresh and new – I loved it and would recommend again and again. They did close for a few hours each afternoon for siesta – I think from 3 – 6! Could pose a problem if you were arriving at that time. I arrived around 2:30 – just in time for some lovely snacks and a room. If you are calling around, I learned that some albergues are also closed during the slower season. I am not sure if that is the case for this one or not. Many locals joined us in the bar for drinks and it felt as much a local watering hole as a pilgrims rest along the way.

      Posted by Anita Mac | March 18, 2013, 8:57 am


  1. Pingback: Albergues and Hotels on the Camino de Santiago (Burgos to Astorga) « traveldestinationbucketlist - October 21, 2012

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